Who doesn’t daydream about the delicate, verdant landscapes of Tuscany or, just as poetic but quieter, the neighboring region of Umbria? They share emerald greens of forests and hills, the ancient stones of proud manors, and a history deeply rooted. It was enough for Karla Miller to hit these lazy roads, in search of the finest hotels in Tuscany and Umbria, for incredible estates that invite total disconnection.
Reschio
An 11th-century ruined castle and around fifty decaying farms scattered across 1,500 hectares of woods and meadows: to acquire this formidable estate, Count and Countess Antonio Bolza nearly left everything behind, and it was their son, the architect Benedikt, who restored its splendor, turning the fortress into a 36-room hotel framed by cypress trees.
Visible stones, polished terracotta floors, and patinated woods where modern furniture, four-poster beds, and regional antiques converse. And then there are all these spaces you unfurl like a daisy: a greenhouse with wrought-iron colonnades, cheerfully decorated, lush with greenery, the perfect spot to sip a Negroni; a library for dreamers; two dovecotes perched atop the tower for a candlelit dinner, tête-à-tête; and the old kitchen converted into a lounge-bar with, in winter, a crackling fire in the hearth.
Of course, from breakfast to dinner, Italian cuisine takes center stage in both restaurants. A straightforward cuisine but one that asserts its authenticity, reflected by produce from the organic garden or the surrounding area.
Tomorrow, we’ll take time to wander the fragrant gardens, lounge by the pool, and sample the exclusive experiences this estate offers: join a wine or olive oil tasting, take a cooking class after picking ingredients from the garden, hunt truffles on the property, or ride one of the owners’ magnificent Spanish horses?
And, why not, savor a moment to yourself in the stunning spa tucked away in the vaulted cellars: a saline pool touched by natural light, a cascading shower, a hammam and a sauna, and this incredible suite for lovers to book: two massage tables, two bathtubs, a tepidarium, a lounge with tea and a crackling fire. A time-out-of-time, refined, among the experiences one won’t soon forget.
Pieve Aldina
The Fontenille Collection now escapes into this bucolic Italian countryside, offering a charming retreat along the wine route between Siena and Florence. Four ancient houses connected to a 10th-century Romanesque church form a true hamlet where stone converses with the surrounding vines.
Gardens of climbing roses and sculpted boxwoods, terraces draped with wisteria, and that ochre light gliding over the old tiles. Frédéric Biousse and Guillaume Foucher enlisted Florentine artisans to preserve neo-classical frescoes and restore the stencils, and enlisted the Pierattelli studio to curate furniture signed by Gervasoni, Caravane headboards, and Pierre Frey textiles.
The décor of the 22 rooms, all different, favors minimalism, embraces soothing colors, and features black-and-white photos and elegant art objects. Some rooms boast exposed beams, others a stone wall: all lean toward a harmonious design.
Two restaurants, but they only speak Italian; the œnothèque cultivates a simple sensibility: charcuterie and cheeses pair with a local wine for a convivial lunch. One sits at the communal table to savor homemade gnocchi, and in the evening the traditional Tuscan cuisine is reimagined with just the right touch of modernization by Florentine Chef Niccolò Pini.
Afternoons slip by too quickly: explore the vineyards and villages that haunt the hills, lounge in the shade of the pool, or slip into the spa’s hammam or sauna for a Nooānce holistic experience, or, more classically, a Laboratori Hur treatment. And why not learn to make real pasta? Pack a picnic to enjoy at the foot of the olive trees? Because everything on this estate invites la dolce vita. The perfect place for a wellness weekend.
Castello di Casole, Belmond Hotel
A lazy road winds between two rows of cypress trees, and around a bend you discover this extraordinary estate spanning nearly 1,700 hectares, nestled in rolling hills, vineyards, and olive groves.
Here is one of Belmond’s two properties in Tuscany: the region lends itself to noble estates, and this one, a 15th-century castle set in a nature reserve with that unmistakable air of aristocracy, is no exception. It was once owned by Count Edoardo Visconti, brother of the famed director Luchino Visconti, and the place still hums with memories of the grand celebrations once held here.
The mansion reveals 39 rooms, including superb suites with stone walls, original floors, and exposed beams. There are also 250-square-meter villas with private gardens, a wood-fired oven in the outdoor kitchen, jaw-dropping views, and an infinity pool shared with other houses. If the castle’s bedrooms and much of the common spaces lean toward classic décor, interior designer Alessandro Moriconi’s broader vision favors a more contemporary Italian design.
What truly sets this address apart is its agricultural past; numerous Etruscan artifacts have been unearthed here and are displayed in the library as well as in the Essere Spa, which makes itself at home under the arches of the old wine cellar. One cannot resist the treatments inspired by Etruscan methods, for they whisper of olive oil, honey, and rosemary.
Two restaurants offer regionally inspired, honest and generous cuisine, with the Tosca gastronomic dining room adding a touch of modernity and refinement. Summer visits are ideal to enjoy the garden—an extraordinary space with 8,000 roses and an infinity pool, dining under the stars (the site is astro-tourism certified, allowing star gazing with telescopes)—and autumn is perfect for deer rutting and truffle hunting.
Villa di Piazzano
Cortona, a border town between Umbria and Tuscany. It’s here that Cardinal Silvio Passerini commissioned this villa as a 15th-century hunting estate. Set within a protected nature reserve, it overlooks this gently rolling countryside.
Purchased in the late 20th century by Adriana and John Danmian Wimpole, an Australian-Italian couple, this five-star hotel, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, has risen to new splendor, expanding without losing an ounce of charm or aesthetic.
31 rooms and suites share the main house along with Limonaia, once used to store lemons, the former stables with a fairly classic décor, and Tabaccaia, a tobacco-tower converted into a two-bedroom duplex suite with a private garden and a contemporary atmosphere. All open wide to the countryside or the courtyard with hundred-year-old lemon trees and intoxicating jasmine.
In the kitchens of Antica Casina di Caccia, Chef Gabriele Corrias presides: staying in Italy with regional cuisine, but the menu travels as far as Sardinia for a cuisine as elegant as it is generous, where vegetarian dishes don’t shy away from game, all set against garden-fresh vegetables.
It grips you with a sense of serenity, inviting you to dive into the heated pool guarded by a phalanx of cypress trees, to drift off for a massage in the dedicated cottage, to wander through gardens with more than a thousand plant species—fragrances, colors, and layouts conjuring genuine wonder. And finally settle beneath the century-old oaks at the Ai Lecci bar, just to enjoy a glass of wine—those that age gracefully in the wine cellar prepared for tastings.
Como Castello del Nero
It took a mere three months for renowned Italian interior designer Paola Navone to shape this property perched in the heart of 740 hectares of vineyards. A formidable feat when you step into this 12th-century castle.
The building? imposing. The landscape? Exactly as you imagine—gentle, rolling, enhanced by an impeccably maintained park with stately cypress trees and that century-spanning Lebanese cedar that dominates the scene.
Beyond the heavy wooden doors, an unexpected universe awaits: while the terracotta floors, beams, exquisite Renaissance frescoes, and vaulted ceilings have been meticulously restored, the atmosphere leans toward sobriety, in color choices—a spectrum of whites and grays—and materials, primarily wood and polished concrete.
A design philosophy that gives the rooms a calming, almost monastic simplicity. Of the 50 keys, the Heritage Suites stand out for their grandeur, with lofty ceilings and delicate frescoes. One is quick to head to the kitchen, now the former space transformed into a comfortable bar with a fireplace.
When the weather is fine, one lounges on the Pavillon terrace to savor both the Mediterranean-inspired cuisine and the stunning landscape, and in the evening reserve La Torre, the Michelin-starred restaurant by chef Giovanni Luca Di Pirro. Explore his creative kitchen through three menus: a vegetarian option highlighting garden vegetables and fruits, a seafood-forward choice, or a meat-centric selection.
And then there is the Como Shambhala spa, a hallmark of the group’s hotels. It stretches across 1,000 square meters of pared-down space, with a sauna and steam room, but also a gym and a studio dedicated to yoga and Pilates. A 25-meter heated pool, a charming path to the neighboring village, and Florence or Siena just 45 minutes away—perfect for a day trip.
